April 2015. Spring seemed to come and go hastily, that summer is peeking up around the corner. I finally smell freedom and freedom calls for adventure. This year, Pierre has successfully coined up the idea of travelling by bike. I was excited to know the route he wanted to do. The famous “loire a velo” route stretches 800 km from Bourges to Nantes along the river. We decided to start from Orleans, as it was the cheapest ticket we could find from Nancy. So then it is 2 weeks trip, 550 km and we aim for Nantes.
Preparation
Physically – not much. We aimed to pace slow anyway for 30-40 km per day. Day minus 1, we took our bike from atelier velo Dynamo and did some small works – fitting up the bags on the bike, putting pressure on the tire, and after a short test drive, Pierre had to change the front tire. We tried to pack light as possible – but still couldn’t compromise with the bulky sleeping bags and jacket (which is normally we wear on winter).
DAY 1 Nancy – Paris (Gare de L’est) – Paris (Gare d’Austerlitz) – Orleans
Catching up TGV on 8.15am was a small adventure itself. First, was to get the bike around Gare, (lift was broken so we had to carry the fully charged bike over staircase). Inside TGV, the space for bike was quite small and we shared compartment with other passengers still. Arrived at Gare de L’est around 9.45am and started pedalling to Gare d’Austerlitz. There is special road for bike and direction is well indicated, altough quite often bike road is taken by standby taxi, or loading truck. We had almost 3 hours till the next train departure – so on the way we stopped a bit to take pictures and even took a detour (a.k.a got lost). Took one hour to arrive Gare d’Austerlitz (normal biking time will be aorund 20 minutes). Had a coffee break and bought small lunch at nearby monoprix. Hopped on TER and had to dismantle several bags, since the Bike has to be stored upward.
In Paris
waiting for train
inside TER
Orleans – Beaugency (28 km)
Arrived at Orleans around 14.00, and started pedalling to direction La loire. The road is pretty straightforward, easy to find thanks to special signboard for Loire route – just follow the paneu. We were so excited when finally leave the cities and entering the sub-urb and charming road of petite village. We hit the campsite in Beaugency around 5pm ! and time for apero.
Beginning loire route
first campsite
road in petit village
Break at Meung sur loire
DAY 2 Beaugency – Blois (35.5 km)
Packed up in the early morning.A chunk of grey cloud already hanging somewhere in the corner. We had coffee and bread and half an hour later started cycling to Muides sur Loire. Few minutes later it started raining. Not intense, but enough to get through my nerves. My legs was becoming heavy and I was pedalling as slow as people walking I guess. We found nothing in Muides sur Loire for temporary shelter, so we decided to continue and skipped Chateau Chambord route (Not a damn care about sightseeing in this kind of weather !!). Leaving Muides sur Loire, the road seemed infinite with the rain pouring hard on my face. I have to give up my front bags and gave it to Pierre to speed up my cycling. After about 20km, we were so relieved to find Lavoir in Cour sur Loire (basically it’s place to wash up clothes in traditional village). We stopped and changes to dry clothes and cooked up some soup for lunch. Damn relieving.
At around 3pm the rain finally stopped. We quickly continue to bike the rest of 15 km distance. After a good long recharge, this seemed easy and we could enjoy the forest scenery. We entered the city of Blois at around 4.30pm, asked the nearby restaurant for water and decided to look place for Bivouac. Lucky not too far off the city centre, in the farm area we found a nice place hidden by the forest.
DAY 3 Blois (0 km)
It was raining the whole day. So we decided to stay and not biking. Visited little bit the city to buy food stuffs.
DAY 4 Blois – Amboise (42,5 km) + 8km
2 days in the rain, our tent was totally wet outside. We charged out once there was tiny window of rain stopping. Although It rained again later little bit, on and off. We pedalled fast today – covering the whole 42.5 km in 3 hours (oh yeah !!). The road entering the city Amboise, was descending pretty steep and passed through pedestrian area of tourist site. I proposed to stay in a hotel so that we can dry off our stuff. After asking the tourist information office, we were running from one city end to another end for 8 km, just because the stupid lady pointed us to Ibis Hotel, instead of Ibis budget hotel (hello, 30 euro different for one room). When we arrived, the reception was closed but luckily we can still entered by reserving in the machine. Borrowed a hair dryer in the receptionist and started the dry off operation of everything ! And finally, nothing beats warm shower.
DAY 5 Amboise – Tours (28 km) + Le Grand moulin (10km)
Skipped the route to Chenonceaux, as the weather seems not yet stable. We checked out as late as 12pm. Did a little bit sightseeing in the city and stocked up some food in carrefour. Although the city seems very nice, I felt a bit out of place with our bikes – amongst those classy tourist that came with Audi and BMW (plus I heard people speaks english everywhere). So we left quickly the city and continued our journey. We stopped in the bus stop for lunch (and again sheltering from the rain). Entered Tours in the late afternoon, and finally the sun was out. We bought some beers and drinking it in the park.
bus stop in Sunday
In Tours
Beer in the park
We continue futher to look for bivouac. There were some part of the route that is flooded so we had to climb over the hilly side and I could tell you it was not pleasant experience. People knew some place to do their stuff.
In the end, we succeed to find an opening in the farm, nearby Le Grand Moulin. It was good day and we were able to enjoy the whole sunset of that day.
DAY 6 Le Grand Moulin – Rigny en Usse (32 km)
The day started around 9.30 and we headed toward villandry. I found that one steel support for my bicycle was broken. We tried to find a bike shop who can perform wielding but had no luck. I was feeling a bit depressed ,as we continue pedalling, also because I knew it was gonna rain tonight and our tent is going to get wet again. We had lunch on the road near Brehemont. Just when I felt the day will end dull,in Rigny en Usse, I sighted a place – a shelter – in the middle of abandoned football field. It was small house for horse I guess and the bushes has started to grow wild in front of it. What a perfect bivouac.
the shelter
view from the house
location
Suddenly, a stormy night was not so bad anymore 🙂
DAY 7 Rigny en Usse – Saumur (45 km)
Weather weather weather ! The rain has finally dried up but then it came the wind. At 50km/hour and going south east, it was enough to waste away the sweat. But the show must go on anyway. So the journey continue. We passed through one seemingly nice small town and had quick visit. We had to go on detour on the way to Saumur, as the road in the river bank got flooded. This detour, was a long hard winding road passed through wineyard. We enjoyed it at first, but got very tired in the end. It was way pass 6pm when we were approaching Saumur and we couldnt find any shelter for bivouac. So we finally camped in the city campsite.
DAY 8 Samur – Montreuil Belay (23 km)
Knowing that today supposed to be a good day, we took our chance to go into escape route in Montreuil Belay chateau. While the road to go there was less inspiring, the chateu was a magnificent beauty. When we arrived, we took nearby campsite (as I am really lazy with the hastle of looking place for bivouac) directly with good view over looking a small river. Pierre brought one bottle of Cabernet D’Anjou to celebrate the day. Not bad at all.
DAY 9 Montreuil Belay – Saumur – St Martin de la Place (33 km)
We were sightseeing the town in morning, so we again launched quite late in the afternoon. Coming back to Saumur was no problem at all. The only ordeal for today was again, flooded route. Only at this time, we were lazy to take detour and went ahead “swim across” the ponded and muddy road instead. I was taking my shoes off, only to realize that it was bad decision because the bushes got spikes all around, so I was struggling a bit. We were a bit pissed in the end after failed to find places for bivouac and kinda stuck with a dull route that is just beside a highway. (really, I think this was the worst route so far we have encountered). Thanks God, we turned away from this road when we approaching St Martin de la Place. There we found small campsite and stayed the night,
DAY 10 St Martin De La Place – La Bohale (30 km)
Today was practically a half day again as we started late. Nothing special, as we continue our road to Angers. We stopped nearby La Bohalle as we found a place to stay. I hoped it will be our last bivouac.
DAY 11 La Bohale – Angers ( 27 km)
Approaching Angers, we tried our luck to go via south (Le Pont du Cle, Ste-Gemmes-sur-Loire ) to find cheaper campsite. Instead, we found out that the cheapest campsite in the book was closed. So we pressed on from Bouchemaine and head to Lac de Maine. We enjoyed so much this road although it was heavily flooded at that time. After all, it was sandwiched between two water bodies, that was seemingly preserved for ecological habitat of birds. This time, we were having fun of crossing the water ( one part was flooded quite deep, that it nearly drowned the entire height of my front bag), of course with the pants folded up to knee and barefoot. We were still meeting people along the way, and joked around about it. It all end good. We were happy to find our campsite that is located in the recreational lake station. We took a like of it right away as we god special discount price for Loire a velo. The day ends good !
pumping station
Flooded route – the fun part
Bike house in campsite
DAY 12 – Angers (8 km)
Relaxing day as we visited Angers go and back. Sunny day. Awesome.
RECAP FACTS
- Distance Total : Orleans – Angers (354 km)
- Trip Long : 12 Days
- Budget for 2 person :
- Train ticket (Nancy-Orleans + Angers – Nancy) : 280 Euro (includes bike place)
- Foods (mostly quick cook, cans, snack and fruits, occasionally beers, pizza at the end ) : 125 euros
- 5x campsite : 70 euros
- Extra 1 night at hotel : 54 euros
- Rental velo + bags : 100 euros (we rented the bike & equipment from an association , as part of their project of Dynamo Nomads. We thanks a lot Dynamo for this – as literally lending us the bikes and all equipment)
- Fun Stuffs :Bivouac, the feeling of freedom to stop anywhere, crossing the flooded route, disconnection, cute route with most of the time magical and serene scenery.
- Tips : Avoid rainy season. Pack Light !
- Principal Equipments :
- Tent (
- Sleeping bags, comfort to 10 degree, we couple it with smaller sleeping bag to gain more warmth
- Air Mattres
- Small folded chairs (this proven very useful after long bike day)
- Cooking Set (
- Gaz